Chili is one of those wildly variable dishes that everyone makes, and most lay claim to the best version. Weird things can be added to chili in the name of flavor and it’s still turned out okay. But as easygoing as a pot of chili can be, there are also basic rules that impact the way your chili looks and of course, tastes.
The personality and skill of chili come in the formulation of just the right spice mix: a balance of heat, sweet, earth and air, and also how well that mixture is cooked. (Don’t buy pre-seasoned chili powder: grocery store blends have dehydrated onions, garlic and a bevy of other flavorings you don’t want.) Although spices like heat, they can also burn on an unregulated fire. For convenience sake, I like to cook my spice mix into my chopped onions before leaving my home kitchen. This way I can control the heat, letting the spices reach maximum flavor bloom without burning. And best of all, the onions do the work of carrying the spices, no jars required.
Combine 2 tablespoons pure mild chili powder, like New Mexican, 1 tablespoon ancho chile powder, 2 teaspoons chipotle chile powder, 3 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder, 3 tablespoons Mexican oregano, 1.5 tablespoons ground cumin, 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon, 1 tablespoon coarse salt. In 10 inch cast iron skillet over moderately low heat, heat about 1/3 cup vegetable oil and add 4 cups chopped yellow onion, sautéing until onions begin to wilt and appear translucent, about 10 minutes.
Sprinkle the spice mix into the onions, stirring often to make sure the spices (particularly the chocolate) do not stick to the bottom of the pan and burn. In about 3 minutes, turn off the heat and keep stirring until the onions are well coated with the spices. Transfer to a bowl and when completely cooled, transfer to a plastic container with airtight lid and refrigerate until ready to hit the road.
Whether cooking over open fire or in a cabin, the onions must be at room temperature before you get started. In a large stockpot over moderate heat, warm about 2 tablespoons olive oil (just enough to get the ground meat going without sticking to the pan). Start by adding 1 lb. ground pork (because it has more fat) and cook until the meat loses its pink color, about 10 minutes. Stir occasionally. Add 2 pounds of ground beef in four portions (so the cooking temperature in the pot doesn’t drop too much), stirring between additions, until the beef loses its pink color about a total of 6 minutes. Continue cooking so some of the rendered liquid evaporates and the edges of meat begin to brown, another 6 minutes or so.
Add the spiced onions to the pot and stir to combine, letting the fat from the meat carry the spices through the pot. When the mixture is well combined, stir in 4 cups (1 box) beef stock and 3 cups tomato juice (a staple for Bloody Marys), letting the mixture simmer for about 30 minutes. (You can cook it longer if you want but you’ll be ready to go in that time.)
When you’re ready to serve, add three cans (typically about 15 ounces each) of good quality red kidney beans (look for a brand like Bush’s that cans firm, shiny beans; pour off the top liquid but do not drain) and 3 tablespoons chopped garlic (about 6 cloves), bringing back to a simmer for about 5 minutes. When you see the fat rise to the surface, slowly add .25-cup cornmeal, stirring well to avoid clumping, and simmer for several minutes to absorb some of fat.
Serves 6 to 8.
If you are serving the chili in your cabin, you can add fixins like sour cream and shredded cheese. But around the campfire, crumble some taco chips or pork rinds over a steaming bowl and dig right in.
